| Stately treeferns (Dicksonia Antarctica) line the Honeysuckle
Walk, which is a feature of Barrington Tops State Forest. |
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Barrington Tops is a twenty-five-kilometre long plateau extending between
a series of extinct volcanic peaks in the Mount Royal Ranges, an easterly
offshoot of the Great Escarpment. Eighty kilometres west of surf and sand,
as the black cockatoo flies, one-and-a-half kilometre high mountains rise
to swirling mists. On a plateau stretched between their summits, alpine
meadows awash with fragile wildflowers in springtime spread out beneath
snowgums' open boughs. Melted snow becomes lithe white water dancing down
to the sea through ancient beech forests bathed in an ethereal green light.
Pure clear water flows from sphagnum moss swamps that retain and slowly
release great quantities of water from the plateau, fed by mists, melting
snow and an annual rainfall exceeding fifteen hundred millimetres.
More than twenty valleys radiate from the hub of the plateau. Wild rivers
become waterfalls plunging from great heights into fern-lined gorges. In
the river valleys of the lowlands, weathered basalt washed down from the
mountains forms rich alluvial soils. Rainforest in Barrington Tops National
Park is the southernmost link in a chain of remnant rainforests in central
Eastern Australia protected by World Heritage listing. Antarctic beech forests
cloaking the slopes above the nine-hundred-metre mark are a living link
with the supercontinent of Gondwanaland, where they evolved sixty-six million
years ago. Pollen of the genus Nothofagus dates back to the Late Cretaceous
period, when Australia was still part of Gondwanaland. It is believed the
genus evolved after links between Africa and South America were severed.
Today, it is found in the mountains of New Guinea, New Caledonia, New Zealand
and southern South America and relic rainforest in Tasmania. Nothofagus
is the southern hemisphere's representative of the European beech.
The first stage of the Barrington Tops National Park was dedicated in
1969 with additions being made in 1982. The park gained World Heritage Listing
in 1986 and, more recently, much of the area has been declared Wilderness.
The pure quality of their water and their special aesthetic beauty have
enabled Boonabilla Creek and the Paterson, Williams, Chichester and Wangat
rivers to be classified as Wild Rivers. Fantastic views of forested wilderness
unfold from the highest peaks. On a clear day from Carey's Peak, at an elevation
of 1545 metres, the white sands of Stockton Beach may be visible as a distant
fine line above the rolling, agricultural, green valley of the Williams
River, scooped out in a blue-green wilderness of forest. At Mount Barrington,
at 1556 metres, a view to the western slopes of the Tops overlooks grazing
land towards Scone in the Hunter River Valley.
| While reaching up to meet enveloping mists, Antarctic
Beech trees tower over an understory of treeferns. |
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At the Laurie Lookout in Gloucester Tops, it is possible to see distinct
changes in forest types. Rising from the valley floor, warm-temperate rainforest
species merge with wet eucalypt forest up the slopes. Where the slope retains
little water, dry eucalypts thrive. Adjacent to the subalpine swamp communities
and woodlands, grassy summits known as 'grassland balds' cap the summits.
The impressive array of habitats found in the Barrington Tops nurtures
half of the plant species found in Australia and over one-third of its mammals
and birds. A high concentration of gliders and owls, including the barking
owl, which emits a blood-curdling human-like scream while hunting at night,
nest in hollows in eucalypt forest that has never been logged, saved by
the rugged nature of the terrain. The powerful, masked and sooty owls, however,
join twenty-three other animals on the endangered list, including the tiger
quoll, the red-legged pademelon, yellow-bellied glider, koala, broad-toothed
rat and sphagnum frog. One of Australia's rarest birds, the tiny and elusive
rufous scrub bird, may be heard singing a loud melodious song while foraging
on the forest floor adjoining beech forest.
Barrington Tops is home to the magnificent iridescent blue-green paradise
riflebird, which belongs to the birds of paradise family, often considered
the most beautiful birds in the world. Sometimes this bird can be heard
tearing rotten wood, in pursuit of insects, with his strong curved beak.
The paradise riflebird decorates his cup-shaped nest with cast-off snakes'
skins, probably the skins of diamond pythons and green tree snakes, reptiles
which share his moist forest habitat in wet eucalypt and temperate rainforest.
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